|
|
|
I prefer to start my puppies out using an "invisible leash" and train them to want to be with me and to stay with me. I use a stepline during training to achieve this, as well as working with my pup from the moment he comes home on imprinting and bonding. The following information is more for an older dog or puppy that has already started pulling on the leash and the owner is attempting to regain control of their dog. "Why should I walk my dog on a loose lead?" (NEW! 1/14/04) Walking your dog should be an enjoyable experience, and a
dog that is trained to walk on a loose lead is a pleasure to walk with. He is in
contact with you and following your directions, rather than pulling you along in
the direction that he wants to go. "What exactly is Loose Lead Walking?" When you are walking your dog, begin to get him in the
habit of walking at your left side with his shoulder next to your leg. The leash
should be slack, so that it forms a gentle loop from your right hand that
crosses in front of your body and ends at the dog’s collar. There should be no tension
on the leash at any time while you are walking. The only time the leash should
be tightened is if you are giving the dog a physical correction because he is
pulling. "How do I hold the leash?" The wrong way: Putting your entire hand through the loop and then grasping the leash, or wrapping the leash around your hand. It is difficult to release the dog should he try and bolt away from you. You can easily end up with a broken wrist, or be dragged to the ground by a strong, out-of-control dog. The wrong way: Grasping the leash without putting your thumb through the loop. A dog that bolts can easily pull the leash out of your hand if you don’t have your thumb placed properly to anchor the leash in your hand. The right way: The leash should always be held in your right hand, with your thumb through the loop and your fingers wrapped securely around the outside of the loop. By having your thumb through the loop, it gives a positive stopping point if the dog tries to lunge away. He will not be able to pull the leash out of your hand because your thumb is anchoring the lead in place. This is the safest way to hold the leash and gives you the greatest amount of control over your dog. If the dog is pulling you towards the railroad tracks and
an oncoming train, or you are in imminent danger, you have to release the dog!
Simply unfolding your fingers from around the leash will allow it to slip free
of your hand. If there is the possibility of a person getting pulled into a
dangerous situation because of the dog’s actions, I always advocate releasing
the leash. I would much rather a dog be hurt or killed, than his human handler.
"How do I get my dog to walk on a loose lead?" This is definitely one of the most difficult tasks for a person to train their dog to do, especially an adult dog that is already set in his ways. Doing this exercise properly is all about timing, not strength. Whenever your dog gets out of position and lunges forward you have to catch and correct him before the leash is taut and you've been pulled off balance. Your dog has the advantage of having ‘4-wheel drive’, four feet on the ground and a much lower stance, so he has gripping power that you lack He can lean forward into the collar and use his considerable neck, shoulder and leg muscles to pull with. You’re much taller, with '2-wheel drive' so you lack your dog’s stability and ‘digging-in’ power. Since you're so much taller, it's easier for him to pull you forward and off balance if you're not paying attention to him. Your advantages are being able to use the leash to give the dog a correction, having a plan to use against the dog when he misbehaves, and having much greater maneuverability. The keys are proper timing and administering the correction before he has pulled you off balance, and before he is dragging you down the street. Every time the dog gets forward of the ‘heel’ position, before the dog is actually pulling on the leash, you must stop walking! Immediately!! Instantly stop walking, even in mid-stride! Put the brakes on and quickly walk backwards, or pivot and do a 180 degree turn – a drastic change of direction. (You must do this as soon as his hip gets past your knee, don't wait for him to be all the way out in front of you to decide to give him a correction - by then it's to late.) Your dog has not been paying attention to you, so he will come to the end of the leash and will get a sharp ‘jolt’, which will cause him to turn around (usually in surprise) and look at you. At that exact instant, as soon as you make eye contact, turn and start walking away from him while calling his name and encourage him to come back to your side and walk beside you. When I tell people to “encourage” their dog, they usually say something like, “Hunter, heel!” That isn’t much in the way of encouragement! When I encourage a dog, I use a happier voice than normal. I click my tongue, I clap my hands, I slap my leg. I wiggle my fingers in front of his face; I talk to the dog and make the exercise as much fun as I can. I want the dog to WANT to be with me because I’m more fun than anything around us. If your neighbor looks out her window and thinks you’ve totally lost your mind because you’re waving your arms all over the place and talking to the dog and being totally goofy, with your dog following behind with a wagging tail and big grin on his face… you know you’re doing it right! If your dog is ignoring you, sniffing, looking at the birds, or daydreaming, you’re not animated enough. You have to be fun enough to get the dog to want to be with you. :-) - Debbie Knatz |
|
PLEASE NOTE:
|